For our last big meal in Singapore, how best to end the trip than with another visit to a hawker centre? We made our way to Makansutra Gluttons Bay, a small hawker centre near the Esplanade shopping mall (the “durian”). It opens only for dinner and closes quite late at night – about 2am most days (full opening hours at the link below). We were there to eat great food! This handful of vendors were invited by those who run the Makansutra guide to set up a stall here for they serve some excellent versions of classic hawker food. If you’re very pressed for time in Singapore (say you’re only there for a night and most hawker centres are already closed), then come here!
We went there at about 8:30 in the evening and it was already packed! After securing a table and some drinks, we took it in turn to hit up three of the 8 or 9 stalls there. First up, one colleague ordered a whole lot of chicken and beef satay at Alhambra Padang Satay. The meats were well marinated and didn’t require the equally excellent satay sauce.
From the Huat Huat stall, another colleague procured some barbecued chicken wings and white chai tow kway (aka fried carrot cake). Those chicken wings were really something – ridiculously juicy and absolutely gorgeous. We could have made a meal of these.
The chai tow kway was pretty good too, if I recall correctly. The plate was wiped clean by the end of the meal. I quite like it when it’s fried up like an omelette – it reminds me of home.
I queued patiently at the grilled seafood stall and ordered quite the bounty. I had been thinking about sambal stingray (like skate) all day and now finally I’d have some! But first, there was a request for carbs and so a large seafood fried rice was ordered. It was a passable fried rice, good for filling one up but not a fried rice for which you’d travel.
For some greens, some sambal kangkong (or ong choy, or water convolvulus). These are your very basic greens in this region – the long leafy green cooked with chilli and belacan (fermented shrimp paste). They fulfilled our need for vegetables.
Finally, some seafood! I saw the fried baby squid on display and got tempted to buy a plateful… so I did. They were indeed crispy, crunchy almost, and in a sweet and tangy sauce. Unfortunately, they didn’t stay crunchy for the duration of the meal; perhaps it was the humidity that affected it. The poor things ended up a little hard.
The pièce de résistance: the sambal stingray! This was a whole stingray wing (like skate… so, I’m not really sure what the difference is. A Google search tells me that the former can sting you and the latter cannot?), sliced horizontally to make it thinner (ours was quite thick) and then barbecued. It was also covered in a delicious chilli sambal – oh, it’s so moreish and I’m once again drooling as I type this. I’m also trying not to look at the photo.
Overall, this is a great place for a solid meal. Fabulous examples of hawker food all in one convenient location. The prices may be a teeny bit steeper than at other hawker centres but not overwhelmingly so. At the very least, let the number of locals there be an indicator of its quality!
Makansutra Gluttons Bay
8 Raffles Avenue #01-15
(outside the Esplanade (‘Durian’) mall)
Singapore 039802
I think that ends my Singapore posts – thanks for sticking around for them! All my photos from the trip can be found in this Flickr photoset.
Wed, 30 Jun, 2010 at 21:24
Yum. I’ve enjoyed the posts. Thanks. I’ll have to go back to Singapore next door. Just to check out the posts.
Thu, 1 Jul, 2010 at 01:54
Damn. Wish I could have made it to this dinner instead…
Thu, 1 Jul, 2010 at 05:00
That’s a lot o delicious looking food. YUM! Love the name Glutton’s Bay, and a delicious review indeed! Been LONG since I visited SIN. Was there almost 10 years ago. Beautiful city!
Thu, 1 Jul, 2010 at 06:39
This looks so good, and the ‘durian’ so prominent. What a pity we aren’t stopping over in Singapore this time.
Thu, 1 Jul, 2010 at 11:09
lots of delicious food!
Thu, 1 Jul, 2010 at 13:33
You should go to Chomp Chomp at Seragoon Garden at nite where they sell good food and maxwell Hawker Centre in the day as they sell petty good food in the day…. Thanks for liking the Singapore Food as not much people who like this kind as i myself is a born and raise in singapore
Thu, 1 Jul, 2010 at 17:30
Oh gosh, I love BBQ stingray so so much! Especially the stuff from Boon Tat Street BBQ Seafood (who are at the stalls by the concert centre – actually, is this it, I wonder?! And at the Chinatown night food market). The little onion chilli sauce that goes with it is ace.
Fri, 2 Jul, 2010 at 12:32
Are you gong to post about the other things you did in Singapore? Or, did you eat *all* the time? (Don’t blame you if you did … last time I was there, it took great will power not to pick n’ mix everything on the menu) 😀
Sat, 3 Jul, 2010 at 04:02
This hawker center is great. We skipped on last trip. Singapore has just so much great food, but remembering the skate wing making me wish we hadn’t. The sambal and the kalamansi limes Oh Man!!
Sat, 3 Jul, 2010 at 08:49
Gorgeous photos and, although I wouldn’t have necessarily picked the sting ray, having seen your photo and read your gushing it sounds like a must! Hope you had a great trip!
Tue, 6 Jul, 2010 at 20:37
Hey Su-Lin, As a lover of chicken wings…. your photo had me drooling down my shirt!
Thu, 8 Jul, 2010 at 13:47
Robert: It’s hard to go wrong with anything you eat in Singapore! The only thing I cannot vouch for is Western food…only because I’ve not had it in Singapore in recent years!
Ivan: Saw your crab dinner photos – thought it didn’t look too bad!
deeba: Definitely beautiful and very clean too! I bet it’s changed in 10 years though… I remember that it changed quite a bit since I was a kid!
travelrat: Such a shame you’re not stopping over there! That said, HK is pretty good too, so I’m told.
As for everything else I did apart from eat, that’s what the Flickr photos are for! 😀 There were trips to the zoo and to the Peranakan museum too.
kat: It was certainly a pretty good spread! I love that you can have such a variety in one meal.
Rebecca: 😀 Well, I was born in KL and lived in Singapore as a kid so I am slightly biased myself. That said, my English, French and Croatian colleagues all enjoyed the food very much. We did make it to Maxwell but not Chomp Chomp – next time!
Sharmila: Totally missed the Chinatown night market this time. Going to have to add that to the list if there’s a next time!
Kat n Kim: Yes! I so wish we could get kalamansi limes here…
LexEat: Many tables had a grilled sting ray so I’m sure you would have been tempted! They come in S, M, and L so sizes for all numbers.
Kirk: Oooh. A bit messy. 😀 Those chicken wings were seriously amazing.
Tue, 10 Aug, 2010 at 02:21
What a spread !! We had a meal very similar to this when we visited Makansutra at Glutton’s Bay on our first trip to Singapore … loved the chicken wings, radish cake, skate wing with sambal, & little kaya toast stand for dessert.
Tue, 9 Nov, 2010 at 13:47
I love Makansutra… we had these giant prawns with a ton-of garlic on them and a great chilli crab there (using blue swimmers oddly)… man do I want to be back in s’pore
Fri, 20 Apr, 2012 at 08:29
arghh! should have tried that carrot cake! u made it look really yummy