After reading such delectable recommendations from EatingAsia and on eGullet, I knew that I’d have to fit in a trip to Lamduan to eat their famous kao soi. I only managed to find that time on my last day in Chiang Mai, after a visit in the morning to the ruins of Wiang Kum Kam, the previous city to Chiang Mai.
We grabbed a table next to a fan and were presented with English menus. We each ordered a small bowl of kao soi, a total of 3 with pork and 1 vegetarian. The pork one was a revelation, much better than the version I had at buffet place. The focus was obviously on the curry rather than the coconut milk and it was deeply savoury and spicy but not at all hot with chili. On the side, your temperature can be risen with the addition of roasted red chili oil and little limes, raw shallots and pickled vegetables are the other traditional accompaniments. The noodles within the curry soup are egg noodles and the same are deep fried and used as a garnish on top. Both roasted pork and fried pork scratchings featured in the soup, the scratchings half crunchy and half soaked with the delicious soup.
To drink, I chose the longan juice, which turned out to be boiled dried longans with sugar added. These dried longans were sold all over Chiang Mai and I bought a mixed bag of them and lychees to take home. The chewy orbs are tasty eaten out of hand but when we get tired of them, I might boil up this drink.
The best part about having a small bowl of noodles is that there’s plenty of space in your stomach for other goodies. After a quick perusal of what’s on offer, I chose these shrimp fritters, tiny little red shrimp in a batter and served with a sweet chili sauce. Very addictive.
We also wanted to try their spicy Chiang Mai sausage. Long coils of it sat in the kitchen and orders were coming out fast. This one was full of herbs and chili and was the most spicy sausage I’d eaten on this trip (and I could make a joke here about eating a lot of sausage but this is a nice food blog, people). The sausage’s cross section shows us lumps of sticky rice scattered throughout the meat that gave a nice textural contrast.
For the four of us, we had ordered the sausage, the fritters, 4 drinks and 4 small bowls of kao soi and this came to about 200 baht altogether. That’s less than 4 pounds. Highly recommended! When in Chiang Mai, do make time to visit Lamduan. I only wish I’d have visited earlier so I could have had their kao soi more than once! They’re not open for dinner and it’s packed with locals for lunch but there’s plenty of seating and turnover is quick.
Lamduan Kaosoi
Faharm Road
Chiang Mai, Thailand
Sun, 20 Apr, 2008 at 23:29
Even when I eat a BIG bowl of noodles I some how manage to make room for more food. There is really such thing as a SMALL bowl of noodles for me. I’m trying to cut down to smaller portions, but it’s sooo hard! π
Mon, 21 Apr, 2008 at 02:37
what a great lunch!
Wed, 23 Apr, 2008 at 10:35
White on Rice: π I tended to order smaller sizes in Thailand so that I could fit in a larger variety of things. There’s always the risk that a small is HUGE!
kat: It was! Highly highly recommended!
Wed, 23 Apr, 2008 at 13:37
This should be popular street food in Chiangmai. Those condiments usually make Thai snacks (fried ones, esp) stand out, don’t they π
Wed, 23 Apr, 2008 at 13:40
Oh I forgot! Those dried longans can be “heaty” esp if eaten just as handy snacks. I love to chew on them too – just like I love dried mangoes. But I heard repeatedly that excessive eating of those dried longans will cause nose bleed (yes, it is that heaty) π
Fri, 25 Apr, 2008 at 05:27
Hey, Su Lin!
Just a quick hello from Spain, where my favourite eats so far was a fruit salad in Β΄bellotaΒ΄(a liqueur made from acorns, and surprisingly good!)
Fri, 25 Apr, 2008 at 19:20
tigerfish: Yes, I was taught that too…are lychees heaty or coolling? I hope they’re cooling as that would negate the effects of the longans! π No nosebleeds here yet!
travelrat: Was it a “macedonia”? Am definitely going to try to find this ‘bellota’ the next time I’m there – I have no idea what acorns taste like.
Fri, 25 Apr, 2008 at 22:29
oh that bowl of kaosoi looks so good! We ate there and a year later, I am still haunted by that dish. Did you know that there is a blogger in NYC who is also obsessed with this dish?
Sat, 26 Apr, 2008 at 20:12
foodhoe: Wow, thanks for that link! I like his determination to find a good bowl!
Sun, 27 Apr, 2008 at 06:04
The only ‘macedoine’ I ever came across was in a tin, and was a rather ordinary fruit salad.
Bellota tastes surprisingly good … although I used most of it to marinade pork chops before grilling them. The acorns come from the White Oak (Q. alba) and taste rather sweet and nutty; at home, the oak we usually see is the Black Oak (Q. robur)whose acorns aren’t edible to humans.
Pigs love both kinds, and if you are ever in Spain, ‘jamon bellota’ (ham made from pigs fed on acorns) is highly regarded.
Mon, 28 Apr, 2008 at 00:41
Hi Su-Lin,
Nice posting about Khao Soi! I’ve heard that the Lamduan version is very low on the coconut milk as well, though I didn’t have it there when I was in Chiang Mai.
I’m the guy in NYC who’s obsessed with finding a good bowl of Khao soi here. My quest seems to be ever-expanding.
And I might be able to help on the acorns too since I’ve made delicious acorn flour pasta when I lived in California by leeching the bitter tannins from acorns, which even works for black oaks, though white oaks are easier. This blog explains more about it:
http://feralkevin.com/blog/?p=40
It’s a lot of work, but they can be quite tasty.
Wed, 30 Apr, 2008 at 22:55
travelrat: In a tin?! π
And jamon bellota? I loooooove it!
Nat: Hi! Thanks for dropping by! No idea when I’m going visit New York (but I hope to one day!) but I’ll definitely be referring to your blog when I go.
And I didn’t even know that oaks came in different types! Thank you both!
Fri, 2 May, 2008 at 02:43
hi i wonder if this is where i went.
please see the first pic of my post:
http://www.haanism.com/2008/04/lanna-noodle.html
thanks. would just like to confirm π
Fri, 2 May, 2008 at 06:28
>>travelrat: In a tin?!<<
Yeah … the only time I ever came across it was when I worked in a hotel kitchen for a short while & it came in 10 lb. tins. We made a sort of sauce by taking the juice, and mixing a teaspoon of strawberry jam in it.
The chef pronounced it ‘massa-doyne’ which shows what kind of kitchen it was; I left after two weeks, and went to work in a boatyard!
Fri, 2 May, 2008 at 21:40
Those fried pork scratchings look incredible. Lucky you!
Sat, 3 May, 2008 at 20:36
haan: I think that looks like the place – but I can’t be too sure… The sign has the same name but I don’t recall that fancy wooden one. Looks like you had a great meal though – that satay looks good!
travelrat: π
Michele: Oh, those are fried noodles on top of the curry noodles – the pork scratchings are underneath. But the pork scratchings are pretty fab in Chiang Mai anyway, where they’re eaten with a dip made of green chilies and aubergines!
Sun, 7 Mar, 2010 at 20:41
You better leave the driving task to a seasoned Thai driver rather than driving your vehicle yourself. Footpaths in Pattaya are not pedestrian friendly. Prefer back-or-chest-mounted baby carriers instead of strollers.
Fri, 31 Jan, 2014 at 00:49
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