Well, looks like I didn’t really succeed in becoming a proper Chinese/Peranakan lady for Chinese New Year. The flat still needs a scrub and apart from the little spicy spring rolls, I only managed to make a small Indonesian kek lapis, or layer cake. This rich and dense, yet tender, cake is a time consuming affair involving lots and lots of egg yolks. The cake is also known as spekkoek, the Dutch word for ‘bacon-cake’, which reflects the layers within it and was developed when the Dutch were in Indonesia. I’ve heard that its origins might also lie with the German baumkuchen (tree-cake), where the layers are baked into a cylindrical cake.
There are so many variations to the recipe online – some involving a both egg yolks and whites, others involving up to 20 egg yolks for a small cake. When I saw that Pig Pig had a problem with one of those recipes, I decided to come up with a bit of a mashup recipe based on what I thought worked and what didn’t. I would normally never do this – cakes do require proper measuring and all that – but the proliferation of different ratios of flour to egg, of egg to sugar, of whites to yolks convinced me that it would turn out all right in the end.
And luckily it did! Three hours after I started (thankfully loads shorter than the time required for the shrimp rolls), I had a small, very heavy cake on my hands. The layers were very apparent and it all certainly looked impressive. As for the texture, it was firm indeed but by no means hard; instead, it was tender and had a good eggy, rich flavour. It keeps for a while too so I guess all that work goes a long way.
Anyway, whatever you do decide to or not to make, Happy Chinese New Year!
Kek Lapis
12 egg yolks (from medium eggs)
200g unsalted butter
150g caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tbsp brandy
90g plain flour
1 tsp mixed spice
6 egg whites (from medium eggs)
1 tbsp condensed milk
1/2 tsp baking powder
Line the base of a cake pan (mine was 9×5 inch, a 7×7 inch one is also suitable, or an 8 inch round tin) and grease it all over. Preheat the grill to 180C.
Cream the butter and half the sugar together. Then add the condensed milk, vanilla and brandy and combine well. In another bowl, beat together the egg yolks and the rest of the sugar. Add the egg yolk mixture to the butter mixture about a third at a time, beating well to combine after each addition. Sift in the flour, mixed spice, and baking powder and fold in well.
In a large clean bowl, beat the egg whites to stiff peaks. Fold in the whites to the rest of the cake batter (part by part again) until combined.
Place your cake pan under the grill for a few minutes until it’s hot. Add a few tablespoons of batter (I used three for each layer; you can use two to four, I reckon) and as it melts, spread it into an even layer on the pan. Place the pan back under the grill and cook until the top becomes brown.
Lightly press down on the layer so the cake remains flat – I found this easiest when the layer had cooled a bit. You don’t want to compress the layer but just have it sit evenly. Repeat the layer making again. And again. And again. Until you run out of batter. And watch that pan under the grill like a hawk! It’s so easy to get distracted by the telly or by Twitter and then lo and behold, your cake will burn. If any bubbles form on a layer, pierce them with a skewer or sharp pointy knife before flattening the layer and continuing.
When all the layers are done, set the oven to the regular baking setting at the same temperature. Cover the cake pan with foil and bake in the middle of the oven for 5 minutes.
When done, turn out onto a wire rack to cool. Slice off the edges (they’ll be dark brown and hard) and then slice the cake into thin slices and then into pieces and serve. It’s more of a fingerfood-like cake, not one to slice into big pieces to eat with a fork. The cake keeps for up to two weeks when wrapped well in clingfilm. I hear it can last for months when stored in the fridge though I’ve not tested this!
Sat, 13 Feb, 2010 at 15:48
I love kek lapis, and yours looks so good! Have yet to tackle this as the number of egg yolks in it truly scare me, haha.
Happy Chinese New Year! x
Sat, 13 Feb, 2010 at 16:53
hmmmm. looks great!
Sat, 13 Feb, 2010 at 17:27
Wow! I learn so much about Asian ccoking on your blog! Do keep up the good work as I enjoy your posts. Thanks.
Sat, 13 Feb, 2010 at 17:52
Happy lunar new year! This cake looks amazing, I really like egg-flavoured things. Like egg tarts. Mmmmmm….
Sat, 13 Feb, 2010 at 18:11
I love that layers. Happy Chinese New Year and Valentine’s day.
Sat, 13 Feb, 2010 at 20:37
1tbs condensed milk? It hardly seems worth opening a can! The layers are so perfect.
Sun, 14 Feb, 2010 at 06:31
Happy new year! Your kek looks amazing! Haha, I never realised that “spekkoek” was from a Dutch word, I always associate it with my aunties in Malaysia and thought it was a Malay/Chinese word! Lol.
xox Sarah
Sun, 14 Feb, 2010 at 13:31
yummy it looks gorgeous! You get A* from me!!!I used to bake lots of themw ith my mom for hari raya and chinese new year. We bake both these and a lot of more colourful varieties with *creative* like lapis bumi (earth layers) my favourite. There are also the steamed variety. But I never made it on my own so another round of salutations to you, babe!
Sun, 14 Feb, 2010 at 20:54
That looks absolutely incredible. If we have an egg glut, I’m going to try this!
Mon, 15 Feb, 2010 at 05:45
That looks so pretty and elegant with all its layers, and the number of eggs is impressive! Happy New Year!
Mon, 15 Feb, 2010 at 17:15
gong xi fa tsai – I’ve never had that cake before on Chinese New Year’s and it looks like I’ve been missing out. Three hours is a serious investment of time, though!
Mon, 15 Feb, 2010 at 23:11
Wow, what a mammoth effort!
Love the photos of the egg yolks!
Tue, 16 Feb, 2010 at 16:22
this is really awesome, I salute you for the patient given to this bake! just awesome! 🙂
Gong Hei! Gong Hei!
Wed, 17 Feb, 2010 at 08:05
happy year of the tiger! that cake looks incredible, such beautiful layers. well done you.
hmm. i like this bacon-cake idea….
Wed, 17 Feb, 2010 at 13:37
Happy New Year, Su-Lin! This looks like such a difficult cake to make, so impressive. my gosh! so how many layers did you bake in all and how did you get them to bake so evenly and uniformly? i understood from your post that you baked each layer after layer in succession. what difficult work, brava! x shayma
Wed, 17 Feb, 2010 at 16:01
i see this dessert by the cashier in Malaysian restaurants. Never tried it though. Yours looked professionally done. 🙂
Thu, 18 Feb, 2010 at 05:16
This is one of the most tedious cake recipes in the world (according to my mum). Well done!
Thu, 18 Feb, 2010 at 15:03
Hi, found your blog via The London Foodie. I have always wanted to make this kek lapis but the amount of egg yolks has never failed to deter me. I love this kek, especially with prunes in between the layers. Very nice effort here! Well done!
Fri, 19 Feb, 2010 at 19:04
Kong hei fatt choy 🙂
Thanks for the history lesson. The only history I know about it is that it originates from the Sunflower shop in Penang near Batu Ferringhi.
Fri, 19 Feb, 2010 at 23:36
Gong Hay Fat Choy, everyone!
breadetbutter: Thank you! I used a dozen and luckily, it still tasted good.
foodiehunter: Thank you very much!
Robert: Wow, thank you! I’m glad you’re enjoying my blog!
fattydumpling: Oooh, good idea…. egg tarts…
Panotr: And to you! Thanks!
Foodycat: You could leave it out or increase it to 2 tbsps! And I highly recommend the condensed milk that comes in a tube.
Sarah: Oh yes! I’m still learning that many of things I assumed were Asian are actually influenced from Europe.
Lisa: Woohoo! A top grade! 😀 Thanks very much! I saw photos of those complicated ones online and my mind boggled…now that’s a lot of work!
Helen T: Oh yes – it’s probably best when you have so many eggs and you don’t know what to do…
ginandcrumpets: Thank you!
An American in London: 😀 It’s not often I have a whole afternoon to kill but I like filling the time with a ridiculous recipe!
LexEat: Thanks! Someone on Flickr said they look like dividing cells!
Big Boys Oven: 😀 Thank you so much!
mei: Oh yes…a REAL bacon cake! Maple bacon cake? Chocolate bacon cake?
shayma: Thank you! I used approximately the same amount of batter per layer (3 heaping tbsps) and then just hoped for the best!
kim: I’m going to keep my eyes peeled at the Malaysian restaurants here! Otherwise, this cake is available at Wonderful Patisserie in Chinatown.
ivan: It is definitely quite a bit of work for such a little cake. And thanks!
Petite Nyonya: Thanks for dropping by! I’ve never had the one with the prunes – maybe next time (if there is a next time!).
Wild Boar: Really? In Penang? Who’da thunk it?!
Fri, 26 Feb, 2010 at 19:39
I’m always envious of people who can make such amazing traditional treats. I am the worst WORST VERY WORST Chinese Malaysian person ever. My mum can attest to that. I dont know how to make anything 😦 but your cake looks perfect! And I do love the photo of all the little egg yolks squished together 🙂
Sat, 27 Feb, 2010 at 21:09
Wow that is an impressive feat Su-Lin! Happy CNY to you. The egg yolk photo is brilliant.
Sun, 28 Feb, 2010 at 00:31
catty: This cake is relatively easy…but it’s just terribly time consuming. And seriously, you’re too hard on yourself! I don’t know a lot either but I just try to figure it out as I go along (blogs and my grandmother’s old cookbook both help!).
foodhoe: Thank you! And Gong Hay Fat Choy!
Tue, 2 Mar, 2010 at 08:17
Gorgeous 🙂 wow!
Tue, 2 Mar, 2010 at 11:12
Wow, impressive! I absolutely adore layer cake but I can only imagine the amount of patience needed to make it. I’ll just have to stick to the shop bought stuff. Your cake looks great 🙂
Mon, 19 Jul, 2010 at 20:26
Kami di Lagenda Synergy juga menyediakan pelbagai jenis kek lapis sarawak untuk pilihan anda pada harga yang berpatutan.
Wed, 1 Sep, 2010 at 01:17
omg wow! I love this!!