A recipe! I haven’t had one of those on here for a while! This curiosity comes from Sweden – after my return from Stockholm, I was reading about their cuisine in general when I came across korv stroganoff. Now I’m familiar with the beef in a creamy sauce Stroganoff but when I heard that the most popular variant in Sweden involved sausages and ketchup, well, I was all over it. As you’d expect, it’s a favourite meal of many Swedish children.

I didn’t have any falukorv, the baloney-like sausage typically used in korv stroganoff, and substituted an equally as processed sausage that can be found in Ikea at certain times of the year: prinskorv. The recipe was very simple to put together and provided you’ve got some white rice cooked, you’ll have your meal on your table in 15 minutes. Of course, it’s very mild (a little chilli powder wouldn’t be amiss) but it is certainly comforting. It’s also very rich and I’d certainly ensure you had a big ol’ salad and some pickles to have on the side!

Korv Stroganoff

Korv Stroganoff
Serves 2

200g prinskorv or falukorv
1 medium onion
1 tbsp olive oil
200 ml passata or canned chopped tomatoes
2 tbsp ketchup
150 ml single cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Slice the sausage(s) into strips. Slice the onion likewise. In a sauté pan over medium heat, add the olive oil and then the onion, cooking then until they’re soft and translucent. Add the sausage strips and continue frying until they’re heated through and maybe even a little brown on the edges.

Add the passata and ketchup and stir through, letting it all bubble gently together for a couple of minutes. Stir through the cream and again, continue cooking. After a couple more minutes, season to taste and then serve hot on white rice. You’re going to want a big fresh green salad alongside!

I was in Stockholm for work and that let me try some of the weekday lunch deals on offer at various outlets. At Café Panorama, a few daily dishes are on offer. For 95 kr, you chose your main course (this appears to change each day) – fish soup for me – and it included access to the drinks dispenser, a salad bar with bread and cake, and coffee or tea to finish.

Fish Soup

That fish soup was a cream based one that was chock-full of fish and shrimp – it was a fish stew rather than soup. It really felt like a bargain with all that fish in there – really, did I mention it was jam packed full of fish? And it was all delicious.

I visited Hötorgshallen market hall two days in a row, keen to try a couple of the vendors. I went with Saluplats Husman and their adorable fur covered stools. For about 100 kr, I got a lunch of wallenbergere with mashed potatoes, peas, gravy and all the lingonberries I could eat. There was bread and knäckebröd on the side and also water or lingonberry water to drink.

Wallenbergare

And that veal burger was delicious, with a richness that’s due to the addition of eggs and cream. I almost forgot, there was coffee included, of course!

On the second day, we joined the queue at Kajsas Fisk where I perused the fishy menu for what seems like ages before finally deciding on the fried herring with fresh mashed potatoes and remoulade sauce (100 kr).

Today's lunch: fried herring (my new favourite fish dish) - back in Hötorgshallen

There it was again, my new favourite Swedish fish dish and this time was just as delicious. Remoulade sauce was a great creamy, tangy addition. Of course, bread and salad were included though I couldn’t check on the coffee as I had to rush back to work.

I should confirm that lunches on weekends are good too! I was in the Historiska Museet (the Swedish History Museum) on a Sunday and there was a good selection of hot and cold foods – it was a toasted ham, cheese and tomato for me, and with a little salad, it hit the spot! And they too have lunch specials on weekdays.

Something simple for lunch. Toasted ham, cheese, and tomato.

And this was my excellent prawn sandwich (about 100 kr) on my last day in Stockholm at Café Petissan in Skansen. As an aside, Skansen is an absolutely brilliant open-air museum (the world’s first) which I highly recommend – I thought it was mainly a children’s museum at first but that’s far from the truth.

Prawn Sandwich

I had a lunch companion too – this duck – and he showed up by my side begging for a little treat, even going so far as to nudge me gently in the thigh. He got a little seedy bread for his troubles.

This was my overly friendly lunch companion who kept nudging my thigh for bread.

I cannot promise that you too will have a ducky friend but it certainly made for a memorable lunch!

The weather that evening was vile – all stormy and windy and with a windchill below zero – and I didn’t want to venture far from my hotel. I was staying in the Scandic Alvik and while there’s a good supermarket and good cafes nearby, there are few restaurants in the area. It’s in a good spot though as the train gets you into central Stockholm quickly but that night really was something; I needed somewhere to eat close by. I did note a cute restaurant at the end of the street by the water on Google maps and heck, that restaurant – Sjöpaviljongen – turned out to not just be by the water but on the water. They found a table for me right by the open fire (I must have looked like a drenched rat) and I am forever grateful to them for it. Service was exceptional that evening and I was made to feel most welcome.

Open Fire!

The selection of bread that was brought over was divine. My favourite was a sweet-ish dark bread that was utterly divine with lashings of the accompanying whipped butter. I could have eaten the whole lot if I didn’t have lots to look forward to.

Bread and Butter

My first course of Råbiff på svenskt gårdskött, ramslökskräm, betor, kapris och sommartryffel (Steak tartar on Swedish meat, ramsons, beetroots, capers and summer truffle, 165 SEK) was beautiful, all delicate little things tossed together with contrasts in every bite. Slivers of fried potato gave the whole mixture a lovely little crunch.

Råbiff på svenskt gårdskött, ramslökskräm, betor, kapris och sommartryffel

I was extremely happy with my Sjöpaviljongens fisk- och skaldjursgryta med aioli (Fish- and shellfish casserole with aioli, 199 SEK) – again another little break from cream. There was salmon, cod, another white fish I couldn’t identify, shrimps, crayfish, and mussels all mixed up in this tomato based broth with fennel, onions and dill. A little slurp of soup, a little dollop of aioli on my fish….mmm… I’m salivating just thinking about this.

Sjöpaviljongens fisk- och skaldjursgryta med aioli

It was lovely and cosy in there and I wished I didn’t need to head back to hotel! The photo below shows you the inside and its coziness reminded me of many of the traditional Swedish restaurants I visited when I visited West Sweden a few years back.

Sjöpaviljongen

I loved the place so much I returned later that week for another dinner, this time with colleagues. And this time the weather was gorgeous (such a change less than a week later!) and we had drinks prior to the meal on the deck on the water. We could look out upon the calm waters across to Kristineberg (another Stockholm district).

This time I started with Toast Skagen med kalixlöjrom (Toast with a mix of prawns, dill and mayonnaise and a fish roe topping, 129 SEK), quite a common classic Swedish starter.

Toast Skagen

I was really looking forward to my main course of Biff Rydberg med rå äggula och senapsgrädde (Biff Rydberg with egg yolk and creamy mustard, 259 SEK); I was thinking about it all day since we had to choose our dishes in advance for such a large group. This was fabulous – a kind of luxurious version of the classic Swedish pyttipanna, which is a hash of potatoes, onions, and meat. And here there was fried potatoes, fried onions, fried pieces of fillet steak and a raw egg to hold it all together. Oh, and a butter sauce. Delicious.

Biff Rydberg

A final photo of the restaurant!

Sjöpaviljongen

If you go, do make a booking if you can – the best way to contact them is via their email address on their website.

Sjöpaviljongen
Tranebergs Strand 4
167 40 Bromma
Stockholm
Sweden

The first thing that comes to mind when Sweden is brought up is probably meatballs. Or Ikea. Or Ikea meatballs. Of course, on a week-long trip to Stockholm (for business and leisure), there’d be plenty of time to try the real thing. I had my first meatballs on this trip at Meatballs for the People, a meatball-loving pub/restaurant located in the trendy area of SoFo (south of Folkungagatan) in Södermalm.

Untitled

I visited for lunch and there was a short menu of traditional Swedish meatballs, a Caesar salad with rooster meatballs, and an open-faced meatball sandwich. One of the first for me please! This was also my first experience with the lunch deals in Stockholm. I placed my order for my meatballs and the total price with a drink came to about 130 SEK. I waited for my lunch, there were little stations around to help yourself to homemade pickles, bread (and knäckebröd) and butter, and after your meal, biscuits with coffee. Lovely!

Swedish Meatballs!

My bowl of beautifully tender meatballs came with a little hill of mashed potatoes, lingonberries, pickled cucumber slices, and plenty of the usual cream gravy. I loved the lingonberries, clearly just fresh berries cooked gently with a little sugar; they made for a sweet-tart pop beside the creamy gravy and potatoes. Highly recommended!

They also sell their meatballs (quite a few varieties from what I could see that day) to have at home.

Meatballs for the People
Nytorgsgatan 30
116 40 Stockholm
Sweden

My next food adventure was totally different from what both Jeanne and Denise experienced – Visit Sweden arranged for three separate afternoon activities, one for each of us. I’ll leave it to them to let you know where they went but I was headed for Helsingborg, one of the oldest cities in Sweden and the closest point in Sweden to Denmark (across the Öresund Sound from the city is the Danish city of Helsingør). Karin Erlandsson of Skane Tourism very kindly drove me up to the city, about an hour’s drive away, but if you’re not driving, the train connections are also very good.

We met with Jenny and Malin (they’re sisters!) of Food by the Way, a company running food walks throughout the city of Helsingborg, and I would be spending my afternoon with them. Each tour lasts about 2.5 to 3 hours and takes in a few food stops in the city and it was clear as the day went on that they both knew everyone in the food business in Helsingborg, having experience in the restaurant industry themselves.

Food by the Way

In addition to the food stops, they tell you a lot of the history of the city as you go along, making it a good option to keep in mind should you only have a few hours in Helsingborg.

Kärnan

While we were chatting, and of course walking, it transpired that they’d gone through my blog, trying to tailor the tour to my interests (it would be the same if you booked them for a private tour); rather than just trying the more traditional cheese and chocolate shops, we were going to try some of the more unique eateries in Helsingborg. Our first stop was a good example – Brooklyn, an American restaurant in the centre of the old town that the owner Richard had based upon Peter Luger. Richard had lived in the States for a number of years, evident in his big, open and friendly manner. The restaurant was, in a way, like him – warm and open and friendly – and it was buzzing. A table had been reserved for us.

Brooklyn

Richard

When we sat down, glasses of Brooklyn brown ale were first brought to us by Richard followed very closely by serious-sized sample portions of pork ribs and cowboy beans. There was obvious pride in his restaurant and the dishes and pride he should have for they were delicious. Looking around at the other tables, it was obvious that portion sizes are American-sized too – we watched as a family struggled to finish two gigantic slices of chocolate fudge cake.

Brown Ale

Pork Ribs and Cowboy Beans

We couldn’t linger as we still had a few more stops that afternoon. Next was Ebbas Fik (Ebba’s Diner), a 50s diner serving both Swedish and American treats, run by both Ebba and her husband Henrik. Every little detail in the cafe/restaurant was authentically from the era and the place was totally packed that Saturday afternoon.

Ebbas Fik

Slices and Cookies

Three huge cases of cakes and sweets were on display and I was mesmorised by it all. It’s not just sweets for fika though – there’s also a wide variety of sandwiches and hamburgers available.

Ebba

Ebba told us to choose our cakes and after noting my preferences, I left it to Jenny and Malin for the rest. They came back with a lot! Of particular note was the fantastic blueberry crumble with cream and the vacuum cleaner (dammsugare, and so called because you use leftover cake and cookie crumbs to make it). Ebba came to join us as well with snacks of brown bread topped with herring or salmon. The salmon was utterly delicious with its cream cheese base with horseradish.

Dröm (Dream) Cookie Blåbärspaj (Blueberry Crumble)

Electrolux Dammsugare (Vacuum Cleaner) Rallykaka (Rally Cake)

Hallontårta (Raspberry Cake) Smoked Salmon and Cream Cheese Canapes

I can pretty much guarantee that you’ll never leave Ebbas Fik hungry – Ebba doesn’t believe in small portions at high prices! Ebba is fantastic herself – a very go-getting woman who’s also doing good in her community; apart from serving the usual customers, she’s preparing lunches for students from a number of local schools (I’ve been reading the menus on her site each day and they make my mouth water). Her diner is a fantastic place for a meal or for fika. Needless to say, we couldn’t finish everything on the table and Ebba very kindly packed up the leftovers for me to take back.

Our third stop, Pitcher’s, was only a stone’s throw from Ebbas Fik and to my surprise, was a British pub in the middle of Helsingborg!

Pitchers

Here we were to sample beers from Helsingborgs Bryggeri (Helsingborg’s Brewery). As we all were not big beer drinkers though, we decided to only taste two of the more uncommon offerings from the brewery – lakrits (Swedish liquorice) beer and chilli pepper beer. While the former seemed promising as it was made in collaboration with Lakritsfabriken, unfortunately, it did not taste of any liquorice; the chilli pepper beer, on the other hand, had a great kick to it. It’s probably better drunk on its own than with any food.

Beers from Helsingborg Brewery

It shouldn’t have surprised us but, of course, it wasn’t just about the beer! We were brought a selection of bar snacks and a variety of their homemade sauces: cheddar, cream cheese, bbq and aioli (and truly, we were not expecting this!).

Fried Potatoes Fried Cheese Stuffed Jalapeno Peppers

Onion Rings Wings

Dips

It’s a lovely place to spend the afternoon but again, we had to get going. Anyway, we were surrounded by very upset men, all fans of a local football team, watching their team lose on the televisions…

Inside Pitchers

On our way to our final destination, we stopped by Fahlmans Konditori so they could show me its beautiful space. I adore cafes and this would certainly be my first destination should I return to Helsingborg.

Sweets

It was very kind of them to give me a one minute tour of the bakery/kitchen. Now I have no idea how the food is but I reckon it has to be good for them to be open since 1914.

In the Kitchen

And finally, we rolled onwards to our final destination: Helsingborgs Glassfabrik, a local ice cream company with a stand by the docks. As it was late in August and the days were getting cooler, they didn’t have as many flavours as usual – in fact, they were about to close for the summer.

Helsingborgs Glassfabrik

I sampled two flavours – sea buckthorn ice cream (the orange one) and a lime sorbet. While the latter was just too lip-puckeringly sour, the sea buckthorn was a lovely combination of sweet and tart, perfect for perhaps hotter summers!

Ice Cream

And that was where my tour of Helsingborg’s food scene ended. Thank you so much, Jenny and Malin, for the great afternoon! It was great to see this range of traditional and international places in Helsingborg. Do check our their website for their schedule of tours (all priced at 295 SEK per person or about £28) or to arrange for a private tour.

Jenny and Malin

As I mentioned previously, train connections are very good. One option that I’d like to try in the future is the Around the Sound ticket, giving you one round roughly from Malmo to Helsingborg to Helsingor (on the ferry) to Copenhagen and then back to Malmo. It’s possible to stop off anywhere along the route (taken in either direction) with the ticket that’s valid for 48 hours. The ferry between Helsingborg and Helsingor (which is also home to Kronborg Castle aka the Hamlet castle) is also of interest – a popular activity is to sit on that ferry and have dinner on it as it goes back and forth between the cities!