I had yet another giant lemon that needed using up and turned to the internet in search of some inspiring recipe. A sale on a glut of aubergines and a recipe for them with lemon by Yotam Ottolenghi seemed just the ticket. However, I wasn’t keen on actually turning on my oven in the hot weather (the heat leaks and heats our entire living room) and adapted the recipe to use aubergines cooked over our gas stove.

Aubergines with Fried Onions and Chopped Lemon

What a great dish it turned out to be! I loved the acidity of the lemon in combination with the sharp feta, silky aubergines and sweet onions. It would make a great side dish or…y’know, just spoon it all into your mouth and call it dinner.

Aubergines with Fried Onions and Chopped Lemon

Aubergines with Fried Onions and Chopped Lemon
adapted from an Ottolenghi recipe.
serves 2-4.

2 large or 5-6 small aubergines
1 tbsp olive oil
2 onions, sliced thinly
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tsp cumin
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 small lemon or 1/2 a giant lemon
feta cheese

Barbecue or grill the aubergines over a gas flame until soft and black all over. Let cool and then peel them and chop the flesh into large chunks. Set aside.

Heat a frying pan or saute pan over medium heat and add the olive oil. Add the thinly sliced onions and let cook until caramelised (this will take a while). Add the garlic and cumin and cook and stir through. Stir through the aubergine chunks until mixed well and warmed through. Add salt and pepper to taste. Plate.

Peel and seed the lemon and chop its flesh up and scatter on top of the aubergine mixture. Likewise, crumble however much feta cheese you’d like and scatter that on top too.

Set aside and serve at room temperature.

The words “ready meals” suffer a bit of a stigma over here as one initially pictures the sad sweating plastic wrapped packets on the supermarket chilled shelves, ready for a nuking in the microwave. But the ready meals I’ve come across in Barcelona were always wonderful – freshly made croquetes, roasted chicken parts and meat stews, cooked legumes, and trays of prepared canalons ready for a cooking in the oven. Needless to say, you can pick all these up and more at one of the many fabulous markets scattered throughout the city. This is what London is missing!

Catalan-Style Stuffed Aubergines

Anyway, what I wanted to really talk about was what I recently encountered on my last trip there – stuffed aubergines. I saw trays of them ready for the oven – halved aubergines (usually the slim kind rather than the large bulbous ones) stuffed with a meat mixture and slathered in a rich bechamel. They looked fantastic and though I never tasted them, I knew I wanted to recreate something like that at home. But aubergines are not the only vegetable that’s filled; if you take a look at Colman Andrew’s fabulous book Catalan Cuisine, he has a whole section on stuffed vegetables.

Stuffed with Pork Filling

It turned out to be quite straightforward – all the components can be cooked ahead of time and put together well before they need to be baked. The meaty filling was so flavourful with the onion and tomatoes cooked down until they were melting together in their sofregit; the silky aubergines, though quite lovely by themselves, were really just carriers for the meat! The bechamel was luxuriously rich and I dolloped it on with a generous hand – the recipe below does make quite a lot. The only things I’d change next time is to try the thinner Japanese aubergines and to be more generous with the Parmesan cheese on top!

Slathered in Bechamel and Parmesan

Catalan-Style Stuffed Aubergines
serves 4 as a main course.

4 small-medium sized aubergines
olive oil

For the filling
2 tbsps olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2 medium or 1 large tomato
500 g minced pork
a large pinch of dried thyme
a large pinch freshly ground nutmeg
freshly ground pepper
4 tbsps fresh breadcrumbs
1 egg

For the bechamel
500 mL milk
80g unsalted butter
4 tbsps plain flour
freshly ground pepper
a large pinch of freshly ground nutmeg

freshly grated parmesan cheese

Prepare your aubergines. Cut each in half lengthwise and scoop out the insides leaving at least a centimetre of flesh (I tossed the insides as mine had a lot of seeds). Arrange cut side up on a baking tray and brush liberally with olive oil. Roast in a hot oven until tender and set aside while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.

Prepare your filling. First we’ll make a sofregit of the onions, garlic and tomatoes. In a frying pan, heat the oil over low heat and add the finely chopped onion. This has to cook until the onions have become soft and golden – this will take at least 15 minutes on a low temperature. When the onions are close to this, you can add the minced garlic and continue cooking until the onions are cooked and the garlic has lost its rawness. In the meantime, prepare your tomatoes – cut each in half around its equator and deseed them. Use your palm to push each cut half against a box grater and grate the tomato pulp, leaving behind the skins. Add this tomato pulp when the onions are golden and continue cooking over low heat until the tomatoes have melted into the onions and its redness is darker. That’s your sofregit. Add the minced pork and fry, stirring frequently so that the pork is crumbly, until the pork is all cooked (about 10 minutes). Add the thyme and nutmeg and season well with salt and pepper. Stir again and then turn off the heat. In a bowl, beat the egg and add the breadcrumbs to this. Stir together and then add this mixture to the pan with the pork. Stir to incorporate and there’s your filling.

Make the bechamel. In a heavy bottomed pan, melt the butter over low heat. Add the flour and whisk together until incorporated. Let cook for about 3-4 minutes, whisking from time to time. Pour in the milk about a quarter of the volume at a time (you could whack in the whole thing but then it always seems to take longer). Whisk very well after each milk incorporation and then continue adding once the mixture gets thick. After all the milk has been added, continue cooking over low heat and whisking often until the bechamel is thick. Season with salt, freshly ground black pepper and a little freshly ground nutmeg, give it a final whisking and turn off the heat.

Put it together. Preheat your oven to 200 degrees Celsius. Lay your roasted aubergine halves in a baking dish and fill them with the pork mixture. Really stuff them well – use all that filling up! Top each filled aubergine half with a good couple of spoonfuls of bechamel and then sprinkle with some finely grated parmesan cheese. Bake in the oven for about 15-20 minutes – the filling should be cooked through (that egg) and the tops should be golden brown.

Serve with a salad and bread on the side.

I came home last week craving meatballs; in particular, I wanted meatballs with toasted pinenuts and the sweetness of raisins – just like in the recipe by Molly from Orangette, whose recipes have always been dependable. Instead of turkey, I used pork and I also substituted flat leaf parsley for the coriander; they’re very customisable. I highly recommend making them – they’re juicy and meaty and yet have the nuts and raisins to keep them interesting.

Meatballs with Pinenuts and Raisins

But what was I going to pair with the meatballs? I was already going to buy yogurt and lemons for the accompanying sauce and so thought of the seemingly recent pairings of grilled aubergines with yogurt – the first time I had this was at Ottolenghi a number of years back. I’ve still not got his eponymous cookbook but with that dish in mind, I threw this together based on what I had in my cupboards. And I got to christen my new grill pan with the aubergine slices! (If you don’t have one, just stick them under the grill.)

Grilled Aubergine with Lemon and Yogurt

The result? A great vegetable side dish – the tang of the yogurt and lemon goes so well with the neutral aubergines and gosh, I love pinenuts. I do wish I had doubled the recipe though but for normal people who expect normal portion sizes, this recipe will do!

Grilled Aubergines with Lemon and Yogurt
serves 2 as a side dish.

2 small/medium aubergines
olive oil
1/2 cup Greek yogurt
1 clove garlic
juice from half a lemon
ground cumin
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsps pine nuts, toasted
a few sprigs of flat leaf parsley
Piment d’Espelette or pimentón

Slice each aubergine lengthwise into 4 slices (each slice will be between 1-2cm thick). Brush one side of each slice liberally with olive oil, sprinkled with salt and pepper, and slap onto a hot grill pan. Cook each side for about 5 minutes, brush liberally with oil again and flip and continue cooking. They should be soft when fully cooked – at this point, remove them onto a plate and continue cooking the rest of the slices.

Crush the garlic clove into the yogurt and stir in the lemon juice too. Add a good pinch or two of ground cumin and season well with salt and pepper. Stir again and adjust the seasonings if desired.

Dollop the yogurt on the aubergine slices – you may not use all the sauce and it’s great on the meatballs (should you decide to make them!). Chop the parsley and sprinkle that and the toasted pinenuts on top. Sprinkle with Piment d’Espelette or pimentón and serve.