It had been a lazy day in Marseille. We had missed the bus to Cassis and instead took another couple of buses to Marseille’s beaches south of the main city. A very lazy day by the beach. And what was for dinner that night? Pizza. Pizza in Marseille? Yes, and I was really looking forward to it, especially after my great pizza experiences in Nice a couple years ago and also another cheap pizza we scoffed earlier on this trip. My French colleague had sent me off with only one recommendation for Marseille – Chez Etienne – which specialises in, you guessed it, pizza.
The restaurant is easy enough to find in Le Panier, Marseille’s oldest neighbourhood just north of the port. We got there quite early (19:30) and got a table, no problem. However, it started filling up swiftly and when we left, it was completely packed. Get there early.
Service was generally grumpy here. There was one or two friendlier waiters but in general, don’t expect anything too pleasant. It’s a good thing the food was good!
There are only two pizzas available at Etienne: anchovy or cheese. We followed the suggestion of my colleague and ordered a pizza moitié-moitié, half and half (€14). The pizza arrived on a tray and the surly waitress dumped half of it on each of our plates and whisked the tray away. The anchovy pizza was just anchovy and black olives and tomato sauce and was very good but what was even better was that ooey gooey cheese pizza (also with olives). The crust was thin and almost cracker-like; it felt like a particular unique sort of Marseillaise pizza. If I get the opportunity to return, I shall be only ordering that amazing cheese pizza.
We followed our pizza starter with an order of their famous supions (€16), the little squids popular in the Marseille area. Here they had been sliced up and fried with a healthy amount of garlic and parsley and a little something to give them a bit of a coating – flour? Anyway, they were delicious, all garlicky and tender and made just perfect with a squeeze of lemon. The man next to us was also a visitor to Marseille and when he asked a (friendlier) waitress for a suggestion, she suggested the supions; I’ve also since heard that they’re considered some of the best in the city.
Bread (perfect for mopping up the garlicky juices) and a dressed salad were served alongside. However, we found the salad dressing to be just a bit too spicy, having been made with an uncomfortable amount of hot mustard.
The rest of their menu looked good, especially their pastas and meats we spied on neighbouring tables. The pizza is a must, though, and is what they’re famous for. Apparently in earlier days, everyone eating at the restaurant was forced to eat pizza as a starter!
Chez Etienne
43, Rue de Lorette
13002 Marseille
France
Fri, 29 Aug, 2014 at 02:27
looks great!
Tue, 2 Sep, 2014 at 09:55
It’s a great place! Now if only they weren’t so grumpy…
Fri, 29 Aug, 2014 at 08:23
Looks cool
http://www.fashionforlunch.net
Tue, 2 Sep, 2014 at 09:55
😀
Fri, 29 Aug, 2014 at 09:14
Still enjoying all your posts – keep going, thanks! Faustina
Tue, 2 Sep, 2014 at 09:56
Thank you so much, Faustina!
Mon, 1 Sep, 2014 at 14:11
Do you have any other tips for Marseilles? Sarah and I are going in October and want to eat as well as possible.
Tue, 2 Sep, 2014 at 10:00
I have one or two more posts on what I ate there. We kept it quite budgety but found that almost everything was fantastic. That said, I collected all these articles and read them all. Hope you find them useful!
http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/07/07/eurofile-is-marseille-frances-next-great-food-city/
http://www.matchingfoodandwine.com/news/travel/an_insiders_guide_to_the_fish_restaurants_of_marseille/
http://www.saveur.com/article/travels/city-by-the-sea
http://www.saveur.com/article/travels/travel-guide-marseille
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/765091
http://www.theguardian.com/travel/2011/may/31/marseille-top-10-hotels-bars-restaurants
http://www.theguardian.com/travel/2013/aug/20/top-10-restaurants-marseille-france
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