I’m not entirely sure how or why or what we were thinking but one Saturday about a month ago, with my brother in town, we somehow decided to visit Clapham, just for the sheer fact that it was easy to get to with the Overground. Now, I’m quite in love with the Overground with its air conditioning and, well, general over-groundedness but to travel to Clapham Junction just because we could was, in hindsight, absolute madness. Still, I managed to dig up the name of a restaurant I’d been meaning to try in Clapham for ages – Trinity. A phone call to them confirmed that their set lunch was available on a Saturday – £20 for three courses. Good, we had a place to eat.

This restaurant isn’t actually near Clapham Junction but rather Clapham Old Town, about a half hour walk through Clapham Common. That brisk autumn walk through the common was just what we needed to build up an appetite and at 1pm on the dot, we sat down, ravenous, in the restaurant.

We were first brought an amuse of fresh radishes and cod roe dip. We dipped and crunched our way through the plate and then when there were no more radishes, we kept the salty cod roe dip for our bread.

Radishes and Cod Roe Dip

Sourdough buns were warm, crusty and deliciously chewy within – we snarfled down our first ones and they swiftly brought more over.

Sourdough Bread and Whipped Butter

The radishes and the bread and butter and both still or sparkling water are all covered by a very reasonable cover charge in addition to the cost of the set lunch.

To start the menu proper, we had all opted for the Livers on Toast, Chanterelles, Fried Burford Brown (this was originally supposed to be a slow cooked egg but we were informed it was going to be fried). It was a generous serving and just a bit too much liver for me (I find it very very rich). Still, that’s just my own personal quibble – if you like liver, you’d love this.

Livers on Toast, Chanterelles, Fried Burford Brown

Blai’s main course was a Hare Hot Pot, Bartlett Belle Carrots. The hare had been cooked and deboned and layered with breadcrumbs and nuts in the little pot – it was gorgeous.

Hare Hot Pot, Bartlett Belle Carrots

My and my brother’s Grilled Plaice, Clams, Champ, Butter Sauce turned out to be a humongous portion of fresh seafood and mashed potatoes. That piece of fish in the photo was at least 4cm thick. I already feel full looking at the photo again!

Grilled Plaice, Clams, Champ, Butter Sauce

Desserts were equally generous in size. Our Apple Crumble, Cinnamon Ice Cream was again a big serving of hot and nutty apple crumble. Like most apple crumbles I come across though, I just wish the apples were cooked longer for them to be softer.

Apple Crumble, Cinnamon Ice Cream

Blai’s Plum Fool was the winner for me – all that “light” whipped cream and plum sauce went down a treat after the heavy meal.

Plum Fool

We ordered tea and coffee to end the meal – needless to say, they were not included in the set lunch price. Jasmine was beautifully fragrant but oversteeped to bitterness.

Jasmine Tea

Sadly, the espressos we had were also not very good, again too bitter. They came with generous pile of dark chocolate chunks though.

Espressos with Chocolates

It’s a shame – these were a disappointment after the meal.

I still can’t believe it was £20 for three courses though and three very generous courses they were too. They may not have been the most refined dishes (gosh, did I mention the size of the portions?) but it was very good value for very good modern British food. It was a lovely long lunch and service was exemplary throughout. Definitely recommended when you’re in Clapham!

4 The Polygon
London SW4 0JG

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