I was perusing Black.Salt when I came across this article about Lo’s Noodle Company in Chinatown. The dodgy-looking lane she described sounded quite familiar: I too had once wandered down a back alley in London’s Chinatown and found some tiny shops along it, some of them operating out of a doorway. I remembered some vegetable sellers, a seafood place and not much more. This past Saturday, I found myself in Soho and decided to have another wander down this lane. And yes, it was Dansey Place. And yes, there’s the veg vendor and the fresh seafood shop and…well, blow me down, there’s the noodle doorway!

Lo’s Noodle Company is printed on a tiny sign and again just above the entry. With all the confidence I could muster, I walked through, under the watchful eyes of a local cook on a ciggie break. I found two people inside, a young man serving another customer, and piles and piles of foodstuff. I had some time to have a quick glance around and then got down to business selecting my goodies when the previous customer squeezed her way out.

The “noodle” part of their moniker is a bit misleading as I found many other items for offer inside. There were steamed buns, as Black.Salt mentionned, but not only char siu ones – chicken, lotus seed paste, red bean paste and custard ones too. There are noodles, of course, the wide rice variety (hor fun, or kway teow), and cheong fun. There are zongzi, both a savoury, salted pork version and a sweet red bean kind. The nice boy told me how to steam them and sprinkle the sweet kind with sugar, and it did sound tempting but I left it for another day. A big, glass-windowed fridge guards the doorway inside, holding huge chunks of steamed yam cake and radish cake (lo bak goh), ready to be sliced and fried. If I could have carried them, I would have purchased them. So they’re for next time!

Char Siu Bao

Char Siu Bao Innards

I settled for the char siu baos (pack of 6) and a bag of very fresh-looking hor fun and handed over my £3. Upon arrival at home, we steamed the buns for 10 minutes to heat them up (they’re already cooked) and wolfed them down for dinner. The buns are much larger than the frozen kind you can find at most of the supermarkets in Chinatown and they taste fresher to boot. The char siu innards are a little drier than I would have liked them but were delicious nevertheless. Go now!

Lo’s Noodle Company
6 Dansey Place
London W1D 6EZ
They’re open every single day. That’s what the nice young man told me.