I woke up early last Saturday morning. Very early. I was meeting a good friend for breakfast and he had chosen Koya Bar, which surprisingly, with my love for the original Koya, I had not yet tried. This slightly smaller neighbouring restaurant was open all day, from breakfast to dinner, and I’ve been keen to try their morning menu. We found the place half empty that morning, though whether it was because it was breakfast time or because it was a bank holiday, I’m not sure.
Their breakfast menu is full of both udon and rice dishes and it was one particular rice dish (actually a rice porridge) that was on my list of things to try. Their kedgeree (£9.90).
What is served to you at the bar is a tray with a bowl of the rice porridge and a side dish of umami-rich fish flakes. Snuggled in the warm embrace of the thick porridge is an onsen egg (a slow poached almost half-cooked soft egg) and next to that were scattered a few shards of crispy fried fish skin and thin slices of spring onion.
We stirred the fish flakes and all the toppings into the thick porridge and also found pieces of smoked haddock within. We spooned the mixture into our mouths and to my surprise, the curry used in the kedgeree tasted like a proper Indian-style curry powder rather than a Japanese curry. It was excellent, all warm and savoury and soothing. It was gone in no time.
I do need to try the rest of the breakfast options at Koya, especially the onigiri I saw on the specials board. Highly recommended for a fortifying yet quiet and relaxing start to the day!
50 Frith Street
London W1D 4SQ