I finally made it to Koya, that celebrated Japanese udon restaurant on Frith Street in Soho. I’d not found time to make my way there in the year and half since it opened and I’ll be honest with you, the knowledge of queues to get in every day really put me off. I sucked it up one Saturday though, roped in my good friend Roxanne and we met in front of the restaurant just before it opened for lunch. Moments after we sat down on one of the wooden benches out front, a queue started to form behind us. Whoa – this was serious. All the early queuers were rewarded with tables and everyone who arrived after they opened found themselves in that queue. We had a table! And we were hungry – of course we would try their homemade udon but we also greedily ordered two of the side dishes.
From the specials menu chalked up daily on the blackboard, Roxanne chose the Baby clams and Girolles steamed in sake (£8.20). Being quick to cook, these arrived first and we dripped the clammy juices down our arms while slurping them down. An extra spoon wouldn’t have gone amiss here as we were sharing.
I wanted to try their tempura and so ordered their Yasai Ten Mori, assorted vegetable tempura (£8.30). It may not have been cheap but it was excellent – light, non-greasy and crisp.
I was very pleased with my Buta Miso (Atsu-Atsu – hot udon in hot broth) (£9.40) – the thick brown paste dolloped on top of my noodles was porky bits in a salty, savoury miso paste. I stirred this through and it made for a most comforting bowl of noodles. The udon noodles had that wonderful bite that you only seem to get from being freshly made and were just amazing.
Roxanne also enjoyed her Tempura (Atsu-Atsu) (£9.90), which came with a large tempura prawn. If I have this next time, I’d ask for the prawn to be served on the side, keeping it as crisp as possible.
An Onsen Tamago (£1.80) (hot spring egg) on the side was beautiful and surprisingly reminded me of the soft boiled eggs of my childhood. I had expected it to be slightly more cooked but it was still good.
It was quite a bit of food between us and we could have ordered one less side dish and still have been comfortably full. I don’t regret overeating that day however – it really was all excellent. What in the world had been stopping me from visiting before though?! Oh yes, that queue but you can show up just as they open, like we did, and avoid it altogether. I’ll be back (I can’t wait to have the cold noodles next time!).
Koya
49 Frith Street
London W1D 4SG






Sun, 27 Nov, 2011 at 21:20
Yay, Koya! Love the place, though the queues are so annoying.
When the weather gets warmer, try the Hiya-Atsu or Hiya-Hiya — I think the udon is even better cold, a little more chewy and more interesting. =)
Wed, 30 Nov, 2011 at 19:24
Well that’s the problem with some of you bloggers, just because there’s a queue, you are inclined to think that your true negative perception of a place may not be well received and not want to rock the boat. Well, I’m going to be strong and say that this place is a total ‘RIP OFF!!!! No question!!!
I was fuming after eating there and felt completely ripped off. You either have not got a grasp of reality or you are simply too weak to give a true review. I think it is something to do with them being Japanese that they can get away with these kind of prices. WHY??? Had they be any other east asian cuisine charging these kind of prices, they will be crucified and the whole blogger community will jump onto the band wagon and thrashed them……Come on be true to yourselves and stop being such weak ‘play-it-safe’ reviewer. £9.40 for some pre-pack udon costing 40p with a bit of pork miso is simply criminal, however you like to put it!!
Lost total respect for your blog.
Manfred Wong
Sun, 27 Nov, 2011 at 21:55
Gosh, that’s pretty pricey for a bowl of noodles! They look good though. Lovely ceramics.
Sun, 27 Nov, 2011 at 23:00
I like Koya, but I do find it expensive. Now I have no doubt the clams were good but £8.20? A bowl of clams at Hawksmoor costs less! Having said that, what do I know? There’s always a queue, so they must be doing something right!
Mon, 28 Nov, 2011 at 01:59
looks delicious!
Mon, 28 Nov, 2011 at 08:48
I hate queueing for food … (probably comes from my time in the military!
)
I usually either book, or frequent places I can get into immediately. And, if there is a queue, and I can see it, I get a sort of uneasy feeling … like they were saying ‘Get it down your neck and get out of here! I want your table!’
(Happy day, when I made it to Sergeant, and didn’t have to queue for my makan any more!)
Mon, 28 Nov, 2011 at 09:41
It’s the hot broth with cold noodles that have me addicted; the cold noodles are so chewy, and you can also dunk some in the broth to soften. I highly recommend the mushroom & walnut miso hot broth dish. SO good.
Mon, 28 Nov, 2011 at 10:17
I’ve gone to Koya about 6 times now and never actually eaten there. Twice, we were too late and the kitchen was closed at 3pm, 2 other times the queue was depressing long and 2 more times, it was closed! Gutted. Must go there soon though especially after your yummy post!
Mon, 28 Nov, 2011 at 14:55
Jen: I think I’ll be having the Hiya-Atsu!
Alicia: Yup, not cheap but I think worth it.
Mr Noodles: True, some of the side dishes are expensive and one could baulk at the price of a bowl of noodles. That said, it was freaking delicious and there was no disappointment at all during the meal!
kat: So good…but I imagine this must be lots easier to procure in Japan!
travelrat: I am extremely lazy when it comes to queuing and yes, like you, I just know that when I sit down, I’ll be rushed out! Didn’t get that feeling here though but we did have to share a table with what would turn out to be an obnoxious man.
Lizzie: Oh, dribble…drool drool. That’s what I’m going to have next time!
Christine: Oh yikes! Yeah, best to go super early.
Mon, 28 Nov, 2011 at 21:51
i’m a msian, in london for a month and i read about koya online, so i decided to drop by the place tonight. just had to wait 5 mins (or less). had the ox cheek curry udon which was superb! there are so many other eateries i want to try but ive only got 2 weeks left..
Mon, 28 Nov, 2011 at 22:03
I seem to be the luckiest person alive, as I’ve never had to queue to get into Koya.
But glad you finally made it here and enjoyed so much……
Tue, 29 Nov, 2011 at 07:08
[...] Cooking and Eating Well in London Without Going Broke – Koya, … [...]
Wed, 30 Nov, 2011 at 11:22
I went there once and was in the queue for more than 45 minutes. I don’t know if it was worth while of the wait. The udon and broth was good, but the portion is pretty small for the price.
Probably because I compare with the same or better quality of soup noodle I could get in Japan.
One thing, I just hope there will be more places like Koya in London to keep the price down.
Thu, 1 Dec, 2011 at 00:33
I love the texture of really good udon noodles! Sounds like this place is very popular!
Thu, 1 Dec, 2011 at 11:58
Manfred Wong: Seriously? Because we disagree over a bowl of noodles?
mycookinghut: I do hope that…and not just udon places but ramen places too!
Lorraine: Yup, beautifully chewy.
Thu, 1 Dec, 2011 at 21:30
Oh yes, Su-Lin, I really would love some good ramen places in London!
Fri, 2 Dec, 2011 at 08:56
Have you checked out Ramen Mondays @ Roka? I did a mini review last week — again, a bit pricey but I enjoyed it a lot. =)
Fri, 2 Dec, 2011 at 14:22
Tempura udon is my favourite and I love the bits of tempura batter that soaks up the broth! But I would just got there for the hot noodles. You can also get frozen sanuki udon in Japanese shops which aren’t bad for making udon at home.
Sat, 3 Dec, 2011 at 15:50
love love love Koya! It is so comforting and messy and so so delicious! Good for you that you have finally made it there
Sun, 4 Dec, 2011 at 18:54
sakura: Oh, thanks for the heads up on the frozen stuff… that would make great dinners at home!
Ute: I can’t believe I’d not been before – and yes, so so so delicious.