On Goldhawk Road, just off Shepherd’s Bush, there sits a pie and mash shop, A. Cooke’s.
It’s been there since 1899, quite a long time in London. Pie and mash shops seem to be a bit of a dying breed in the city though I understand that they originated here.
I’d wanted to visit this shop for ages but sadly, it was the threat of imminent closure that finally got me there. In a nutshell, the council want to knock down this row of Victorian shops in an effort to modernise Shepherd’s Bush Market and from what I’ve read, they aren’t listening to the objections of the residents. There’s been some good coverage of the public meetings where this issue has been debated on the Shepherd’s Bush Blog and I urge you to go there for the full story (see here for the showdown at the latest public meeting). There is indeed a lot of history along this road and not least of all at this pie shop which has been at this location since 1899 (there’s also a diner dating from the 1960s along this strip).
I arrived there late one Saturday morning and judging from the queue out the door, the shop certainly doesn’t lack for customers. Nothing’s changed inside for at least 30 years but there’s a quaint charm to it all.
A single pie and mash was £3.50. Eels were also available but I didn’t think I could deal with them in the morning.
Orders were taken from the counter by a a few seemingly gruff ladies but really they’re just very efficient and obviously have hearts of gold. (One of them might gently bully you into signing their petition to save the shops.) I took my pie and mash and liquor to the last free table and dug in. All the while, another lady was clearing tables and smilingly inquiring to everyone sitting down if they were enjoying their pies.
How was my lunch? The pies are all filled with minced beef and gravy and the mashed potatoes are clearly made from scratch. It’s a little bland on its own but there’s nothing a bit of malt vinegar couldn’t sort out – and actually, you are supposed to be eating it with the vinegar and white pepper, both of which are on every table. It’s quite heavy but not at all dry due to all the gravy inside the pie and liquor, a parsley based sauce, on top and it’ll stick to your ribs and keep you warm and full. I found it strangely comforting, partially because of the stodge factor.
Definitely worth a visit; do go and support them. They’ll forever be my first pie and mash shop!
A. Cooke’s
48 Goldhawk Road
London W12 8DH
(closed Sundays)
Sun, 14 Nov, 2010 at 22:49
OH wow! What a shame that they are looking at closing it, no doubt to create another faceless soulless market. I must visit and support them whiLE I am still working nearby.
Lovely post, Su-Lin.
Sun, 14 Nov, 2010 at 23:56
Thank you, I’m going there pronto!
Mon, 15 Nov, 2010 at 00:05
sounds delicious! hope they will stay in business!
Mon, 15 Nov, 2010 at 04:54
Mmm pie and mash! It’s my local cuisine. It’s a shame that this may disappear as places like Urban pie or square pie company open up but they are so expensive. Proving that food can be gentrified puttng them out of the financial reach of everyone. Back to thread, the pie got to be doused in chilli vinegar and served with a hunk of free bread.
Mon, 15 Nov, 2010 at 07:04
Well, I’d prefer onion gravy or pea soup with my pie and mash, but to each his own. I’m reaching the conclusion that a book could be written about ‘pie lore’ around the world … see http://travelrat.wordpress.com/2010/05/09/the-pie-cart/
Mon, 15 Nov, 2010 at 07:54
Whilst I’m not a big fan of the London-style pie ‘n’ mash – maybe it’s because I’m a Northerner – I do feel very sad that places like these are under threat.
Mon, 15 Nov, 2010 at 16:16
Yo! Let’s you and me go back there and try some eels! I can wait till post breakfast, for your sake
Wen
Mon, 15 Nov, 2010 at 16:41
Great post.
I’ve not yet had the pleasure of a proper pie n mash n liquor, can you believe it!
Mon, 15 Nov, 2010 at 20:01
It’s a shame that the local council are pulling down that entire row. There is so much life there, and it looks like another piece of history bites the dust. I hope it can be saved.
Cook’s does some of the best pie n mash in London, and it shall be sadly missed.
Mon, 15 Nov, 2010 at 21:54
Really good to see this shop as I’ve only just finished reading ‘Full English’ by Tom Parker Bowles and he talks about this and other pie and mash shops in the London section. (Well worth a read by the way)
What a charming blast from the past and will be such a shame if it goes. Personally I think some nice, thick gravy is more suited to pie and mash but that’s just my Yorkshire roots.
Wed, 17 Nov, 2010 at 04:49
Another real classic shop where I used to go with my dad as a kid is Manze’s in Bermondsey/ Borough. The decor has to be seen to be believed (Victorian and beautiful).
You will love it if you ever need a liquor top up.
Tom
Wed, 17 Nov, 2010 at 13:20
Niamh: Oh, do go and support them! The walk through SB market is half the fun too!
Fat Les: Most excellent – already looking forward to your photos.
kat: I hope so too… so much history there.
Robert: No bread to be had here and I didn’t see any chili vinegar but perhaps that’s special behind-the-counter stuff?
travelrat: A non-Londoner, I see!
It’s fascinating to read what everyone thinks of liquor (or not thinks of). I’ve always thought a book could be written of flatbreads or dumplings!
Mr Noodles: A northerner! Is there a pie equivalent for the north?
Going With My Gut: OK! And we can hit up the market and a Lebanese place I’ve been passing everyday too!
Kavey: Go and try one – it’s your duty as a Londoner!
Mzungu: Nothing’s set in stone yet so you never know what’s going to happen…
butterytoast: Another northerner! (shh… I quite like gravy too – there was lots of it in the pie, thankfully)
TomEats: OK, will try to look it up if I’m in the area – thanks!
Wed, 17 Nov, 2010 at 15:48
There’s also F.Cooke’s on Broadway Market: http://broadwaymarket.co.uk (click on the History tab).
Wed, 17 Nov, 2010 at 21:51
What a shame those shops are under threat.
I’ve never been to a pie and mash place,I think they’re more of a Southern thing.
It looks like perfect hangover food!
Wed, 17 Nov, 2010 at 23:19
Us northerners are prodigious pie eaters but we prefer our pies served with chips and gravy. Meat & potato, chicken & mushroom and of course steak & kidney are our faves.
Thu, 18 Nov, 2010 at 06:37
@ Mr. Noodles:
Tha forgot t’ pea and pie supper, lad!
Thu, 18 Nov, 2010 at 11:36
I saw pie and peas at Sallies in the castle Market in Newcastle yesterday. It was only £2 but I had already eaten.
Su-Lin Chilli vinegar seems to be an east London/Essex thing. So I suspect the pie culture is divided into London and then subdivided into east end traditions. That’s why I love London it’s so diverse.
Fri, 19 Nov, 2010 at 01:49
When will town planners understand that what gives a place its vitality is its historic buildings that are still in use? Tear rows like this down and it’ll be replaced by crappy chain stores and the street will be indistinguishable from milton bloody keynes. That liquor looks wicked. I used to know a place in west ham that did parsley sauce like that. I miss London!
Fri, 19 Nov, 2010 at 12:10
Mark: I wonder if there’s any relation?
Northern Snippet: Definitely a London/Essex thing according to Wikipedia. Very good for any application where stodge is needed!
Mr Noodles: Mmmmm…. chicken and mushroom….
travelrat:
Robert: I’m going to have to try a pie and mash place in the east just to get a taste of chili vinegar!
jonny: Awww… London misses you! Come back for a visit! I like Shepherd’s Bush for its variety of independent shops and stalls and would hate for it to go the high street way.
Fri, 19 Nov, 2010 at 21:08
I’ve only had pie mash and liquor a few times – from another Cooke’s, F. Cooke’s on Hoxton St. I wonder if they’re connected? http://www.realhoxton.co.uk/f-cooke.htm
Tue, 23 Nov, 2010 at 22:28
Looks properly old School. Have always wanted to try similar Eel-Pie-N-Mash caffs in Hoxton/Broadway Market but its the sort of thing you really need to be in the mood for!