Trastevere is a charmingly picturesque area in Rome to the west of the river Tiber but still easily accessible from the city centre by foot. I was keen to try a restaurant there; when we were there at the beginning of the month, there were very few tourists around and Trastevere felt like “old” Rome. Dan from Essex Eating recommended a couple trattorias in the area and that’s how we found ourselves at Da Augusto one lunchtime.
The trattoria was a little tricky to find. When you get to Piazza de’ Renzi, there’s one clearly marked restaurant…that wasn’t Da Augusto. There’s no sign for the trattoria but there is a menu posted up – and this was the only hint of the restaurant (except for when it’s packed, of course, with tables spilling into the square). The photo below is what the place looked like when we left.
The menus are handwritten and are in Italian on one side and English on the other, the only hint that tourists do find this trattoria. When we were there, we were the only tourists – the rest of the tables were full of Roman families, single businessmen, couples meeting for lunch. We weren’t any less welcome though; our waiter was very keen to practice his English on us. There’s loads of character to this trattoria: it’s rammed with chattering Italians, the plain wooden tables are packed close together and are topped with just a large piece of paper, and it’s clearly a family run place and I love it more for that. From this environment, we expected a home style lunch and we were not disappointed.
Ravioli was available the day we were there and we opted to split a dish of it to start. There was no indication of what the ravioli filling would be but it turned out to be ricotta and spinach between delicious thick homemade pasta sheets. We were given the option of meat sauce or tomato and basil with our ricotta and we chose the former. What came out was a tomato sauce and we found a telltale shred of tripe within it – I think this was the sauce from trippa alla romana! Waste not, want not. Fresh and delicious and a big portion too – six huge ravioli.
We split two second courses. The first was agnello alla cacciatora, lamb cooked with white wine, garlic, rosemary and anchovies too, I think. The meat was falling off the bone and the simple ingredients complemented that characteristic lamb flavour. Every bit of the sauce was sopped up with bread.
Our second second course was straccetti con rucola, strips of beef with rocket leaves. Though plainly cooked, the beef was thin and tender and obviously of good quality and the rocket leaves added a peppery contrast to the robust meat. Again, we inhaled this.
I couldn’t turn down dessert, not when they’re listed on the menu as “Dolci di Nonna Leda“. Oh yes, grandmother Leda was in charge! (And did I see her in the kitchen? There was a nonna in there…) A torta con pinoli to split again, please. It was a slice of sponge cake with thick pastry cream on top with a good layer of untoasted pine nuts. The Romans love their pine nuts but we were surprised to see most of them untoasted in desserts. But this untoastedness worked well with our light cake and cream – toasting would have made the pinenuts overwhelming.
We wondered why it took a while for our bill to come; it was because we actually needed some time from a waiter or waitress to recollect what we ate and to calculate our total bill on our paper tablecloth. We left after paying about €30, certainly good value eating. The place was absolutely rammed by the time we left so get there early!
Da Augusto
Piazza de’ Renzi, 15
00153 Rome, Italy






Sat, 28 Nov, 2009 at 23:04
you are eating very well on this adventure, love it!
Sat, 28 Nov, 2009 at 23:06
looks like you had an absolutely gorgeous meal, Su-Lin. i adore stracetti, can eat it day and night. my friend makes a version with fried baby artichokes. fabulous.
Sun, 29 Nov, 2009 at 00:54
What a great find! I especially like the look of the torta con pinoli.
Looks like something that would be worth trying to make at home if I could find really fresh pine nuts!
xox Sarah
Sun, 29 Nov, 2009 at 03:29
OMG giant ravioli! i want some of that.
Sun, 29 Nov, 2009 at 12:14
Looks great! I am staying in the Trastevere area over New Year, so will try to track this down. I am reading your Rome blogs with interest for my upcoming trip!
Sun, 29 Nov, 2009 at 12:16
Another amazing meal! So delicious.
Sun, 29 Nov, 2009 at 13:43
Ooh it looks delish. I love the inside shot of the ravioli, the pasta looks silky soft too.
Sun, 29 Nov, 2009 at 14:51
Su-Lin, thanks for the mention. So glad you enjoyed your lunch.
I went to D’Augusto for dinner a couple of years ago and had a fantastic meal. No booking, it opened in the evening(from memory at 7pm) I turned up at quarter past and it was mobbed already with a queue of hungry Italians outside waiting for a table to become free. I loved the whole rustic feel of eating only what’s good that day, the choice of only house White or Red wine by the jug. Authentic, Unfussy, hectic and lively.
Da Lucia, nearby in Vicolo del Mattonato is very similar – a bit more upmarket perhaps (more wine choice) but also very rustic and good. (also no booking).
Sun, 29 Nov, 2009 at 15:06
Oh, I am so very jealous. Da Augusto was on our list for dinner on the second night of our trip to Italy last year, but we were so stuffed to the gills with food by then (total holiday weight gain: 7lbs. In 10 days), that we went for pizza slices and left Rome Da Augustoless. I have to go back.
Mon, 30 Nov, 2009 at 21:38
The food looks amazing – especially the lamb! Definitely a restaurant I will try to visit when I go to Rome.
Tue, 1 Dec, 2009 at 17:08
kat: I’ve got to thank everyone who recommended restaurants to us – they were great!
shayma: oh wow, with artichokes?! I would be all over those!
Sarah: I assume all the pinenuts in Australia are imported then?
Donny: Giant is good!
Jonny: omg, I bet staying in Trastevere must be fantastic! Hope you have a lovely time – I’ll try to find some time to send you an email with a list of places in Trastevere I found *after* my trip!
Foodycat: As mentionned above, I have to thank all the lovely people who gave me a number of excellent recommendations!
Helen: I like to think that it was one of the aunties or the granny in the back who made the ravioli!
Essex Eating: Thank you thank you! What a fantastic place. I rarely drink (and when I do, it’s all sip sip sip) but even I was shocked by the price of the wine (something like €4 for white wine?). A brilliant budget place with loads of character.
ginandcrumpets: That’s some serious weight gain but I can totally understand. It was hard NOT to stuff our faces constantly with food.
breadetbutter: They also serve rabbit cooked the same way!
Tue, 1 Dec, 2009 at 20:23
Any other suggestions would be very welcome, either in the Travestere area or elsewhere. We spend a couple of days in Florence and then 4 nights at an apartment we have rented about half a mile north of Da Augusto – comfortingly close
Wed, 2 Dec, 2009 at 18:04
It is nearly impossible to travel in Italy without discovering something historic – Italy has the most UNESCO World Heritage Sites on the planet, and there are tons of things that UNESCO doesn’t bother listing that are most likely more ancient than anything you’ve encountered before. Italy is a land with history.
Mon, 7 Dec, 2009 at 08:20
Awww, great minds think alike, eh?!
We tried to go to this little gem on one very brisk night, they were full (and we were with Kim’s mum, who didn’t want to wait in the cold) so we ended up at Bir & Fud.
We did go back there for our last dinner in Rome, though. After apertivo at Brakes & Clutches bar. We have an amazing meal …. and just loved the bill being written on the tablecloth
)
Fri, 19 Feb, 2010 at 07:14
This restaurant is in the Michelin guide to Italy. I went there years ago and had to queue up. Last year in Rome, passed by it and the queue was even longer.
Fri, 30 Jul, 2010 at 07:30
I ate there practically every night I was in Rome six years ago. I’m so happy to hear it’s still wonderful. We had the pasta with cheese (actually they told us it’s pecorini rather than parmesan) and lamb in vinegar sauce. I wonder if it was the same lamb you had or if it had changed. The menu was smaller when we were there — only about 3 items in each category, I think. We kept going back, kept promising we’d try something else but couldn’t manage to. We just loved the lamb too much! they were laughing with us as we ordered towards the end. they said they made gnocci on Thursdays then but it was all gone by dinnertime and we only had the one Thursday!
Mon, 9 Aug, 2010 at 18:16
Jonny: A bit late, but I hope you had a lovely time in Rome!
Cecil West: Isn’t it spectacular? And so cheap. And so Roman! Lots of shouting and laughing and I love it so!
Rahul: Oooooh…. wow. We were lucky – didn’t see any other tourists at the time.
Sandy: Wow – what a great way to experience a restaurant! The pasta was probably the classic Roman cacio e pepe – just cheese and pepper – delicious! Gosh, I bet their gnocchi is fabulous; shame you couldn’t try it!
Wed, 5 Jan, 2011 at 22:01
I will definitely visit this place when I go back to Rome. Thank you for sharing nice article and I’d love to link your post on my website.